Posts made by Trumpetsplus

@OldSchoolEuph
As part of our initial design work for our Jaeger trumpets we bought dozens of trumpets, mainly from the 1920s to 1990s. Some went straight back again (thank you Dillon Music!), some were kept for a few months, some we still have. We visited factories and workshops in many parts of the world collecting experimental and production models. We were investigating what gave each model its specific response, and deciding whether or not we wanted that feature. Then we looked at exaggerating each feature we liked and dampening those we didn’t.

Those were the reasons for our collection.

And, from time to time, we sell some of these instruments that were helpful in our quest. At the moment we have a Getzen 900H and an Amati pocket we no longer need.

We could all take inspiration from Pablo Casals
https://getpocket.com/explore/item/legendary-cellist-pablo-casals-at-age-93-on-creative-vitality-and-how-working-with-love-prolongs

@administrator Wagner tubas are fingered left handed like a french horn are are set up as double instruments F and Bb. These are fingered right handed and have only one set of valve slides that look to be Bb length. Judging from the bell size these are probably Kaiser Baritones.

Also be aware that the backbore is machined from the end of the shank with a specialty shaped form tool or reamer, and the cup is machined from the face of the mouthpiece, in the old days with a shaped form tool but now with a single point tool in a CNC lathe. Where these two cuts meet is the throat, which, in a perfect world will be a single point with a diameter of #27 or #26 or whatever the maker wants the throat to be. The world is not perfect so this throat area normally ends up being a short cylindrical section finished to size with an appropriate parallel reamer because the tendency will always be to finish the backbore portion and the cup portion slightly under size.

Number drill sizes are based on an ANSI standard The gauge-to-diameter ratio is not defined by a formula, but is instead based on, but is not identical to, the Stubs Steel Wire Gauge, which originated in Britain during the 19th century.

Forget any third party printout, it is all based on that standard. No issues, just move on. The drill number in the ANSI standard is the size. Remember, drills do not always drill the same size, there is allowable tolerance.

How quick the transformation from Moderato to Allegro!

subito tranquillo e morendo

Selling an Amati pocket trumpet serial 226xxx with case. This is in very good condition, and has the modern stainless steel valves (great action). The lyre mount has been removed. No dents that I can detect. I have deep cleaned and fully serviced this instrument, it is great fun to play! Great choice for travel or as a second horn. Email me for photos. Plus tax for NY buyers, plus shipping for others. $250

You need a reason?

Early record players managed to change a tiny squeak into a room filling sound by means of a passive horn. No extra energy added.

Trumpets resonate at the frequency of their harmonics. If there is no resonance we would easily be playing full sounding glissandos and never need valves - think Kazoo.

Not a fan of recreational (part-time) trumpet players indulging in deliberately avoiding the resonance of their instrument. I have a colleague who bends notes so often in his public warmup that he is unable to start any note in tune. Blog on this coming up in the next week or so.

Not sure what you are asking, but I am happy to help. Wiki lists the sizes of number and letter drills
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit_sizes

@Jolter When I first heard it I heard extra C G C G. Turns out it was an oops in my playback! So sorry for this.

One of the processes in manufacture is dipping the horn in Formic acid to soften any excess solder, making it easier to buff away. I don't know if Yamaha do this as they use lead free solder. If the immersion time is too long the Formic acid can challenge yellow brass enough to increase the chances of premature de-zincification (red rot). Speak to a Yamaha rep or contact your nearest Atelier.

Sorry I have a lot of trouble listening to this. Please respect Mr Beethoven and play the excerpt correctly.

please see correction below

Consider the possibilities:

Are the 2 bells the same length?

Do they have the same initial bore and outside diameter (to fit into the existing ferrule)?

Do they have the same "wrap" (vertical height between the bell tail and the bell flare)?

If the answer to all these is yes, the bell will fit. As to how it will play, that will be a matter to determine once the new bell is mounted.

If the answer to one or more of these is no, a decent tech can probably mount the new bell anyway.

A lot of words to just say "yes".

@ACB said in Survey: How do YOU test a new trumpet?:

@Trumpetsplus this is a wonderful answer and a similar approach I have. Soft playing tells all in terms of efficiency of design for me at least.... ALWAYS music for me.
Aw. sweety!

If the gap is OK it just means the the receivers are different lengths. Nothing to get worked up about. Your current receiver is fine.

@Dr-Mark As I have written in My Friend the Trumpet, the first and only lesson required to play the trumpet is to breathe, hold lips together (as if saying M) and blow.