In my opinion, rubber is good if the water key and nib are in really good alignment when the key is closed. If they’re a little out of alignment, cork will deform a bit to seal better.
Posts made by Dale Proctor
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RE: Replacing cork on trumpet
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RE: Replacing cork on trumpet
Yes. I held the water key open with one hand and popped the old cork out with a mini screwdriver. Held it open again and slid the new cork in. Here are two I did a few weeks ago.
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RE: Replacing cork on trumpet
Yes, it’s not very difficult to do. I just replaced one that way this week.
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RE: Universal copper top and bottom valve caps
@Gendreauj said in Universal copper top and bottom valve caps:
As a very amateur comeback hobbyist player these cornets are good enough for my needs.
Buying these Chinese cornets does stop me for running up my credit card.
In the past, I have owned many used vintage, student, intermediate horns. Also several modern professionals trumpets.
Quit playing for four years and I am shocked at the price of used horns.
I bought my new ACB doubler for less than a beat up intermediate cornet on eBay.
Both cornets are cheaper than a used quality used professional cornet.If the cornets play well for you and you like them, there’s nothing wrong with that! I used to own all sorts of older, inexpensive trumpets and cornets that I bought mainly just to see how they played. I came to the realization that for what I’d spent on them, I could have bought a couple nice used upper-tier horns. Over a span of a couple years, I sold most of them that I never played (and some were really nice instruments) and kept the ones I did. Variety is the spice of life, as they say, but I decided the closet full of old, rarely-played horns might be better enjoyed by other people. I’m down to 10 now, and that seems to be a good assortment - two antique 19th century cornets I kept as collectors’ items, two more modern cornets, 3 Bb trumpets (one is an inexpensive one for “high traffic” gigs), a C trumpet, an Eb/D trumpet, and a flugelhorn.
Sounds like you’re enjoying yourself, and new and/or different horns are a good incentive for practice. Have a good time with it and add some bling to them if you like. I’ve had a few horns customized in the past…nothing wrong with that.
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RE: Universal copper top and bottom valve caps
I’d just get an inexpensive set of caps that fit correctly and have them copper plated. As part of an overhaul years ago, I had an entire bell copper plated, and it wasn’t very expensive at the time.
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RE: Conn.Coprion student ? trumpet.
@Gendreauj said in Conn.Coprion student ? trumpet.:
One of my first trumpets was a Conn Coprion. Loved the color of the trumpet. Good student horn for the time and built like a tank.
Would love to find a copper professional horn.Conn made a few, like the 10B Artist trumpet and the 9A Victor cornet. I have a 1962 Conn 9A cornet and it’s a great instrument.
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RE: Conn.Coprion student ? trumpet.
I had one and wasn’t very impressed. In my opinion, the cornet version (17A) is a better instrument.
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RE: Archival Thread
The Schilke Loyalist - Schilke brass instruments
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RE: Archival Thread
Bach Loyalist - Bach Brass Instruments
Bach Historical Literature
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RE: I have a Vintage Conn 5B does anyone no anything about them and why I don't see a model number.thanks Anthony
@Anthony-Lenzo said in I have a Vintage Conn 5B does anyone no anything about them and why I don't see a model number.thanks Anthony:
@Anthony-Lenzo ....no I guess you don't I don't see it on your list ever played one..Also I noticed that their are Conn.22B models that look exactly like the 5B..
No, I’ve never had one. I’ve owned three 22B trumpets - a 1923, a 1929, and a 1968 or 9. The 22B is a smaller bore than the 5B and is far more common than the 5B.
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RE: Please help
@robertwerntz said in Please help:
Whats up with the upside-down water key in foto #1?
Tuning slide is in upside down…lol
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RE: Please help
@administrator said in Please help:
It looks like a Conn 22B. Note, however, that the case says 1000B. So, I don't know.
I’m sure that’s not a 1000B trumpet, which was a 1970s or 1980s “Doc Severinsen” student model. I suppose it was just a case procured to replace the nasty original one.
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RE: Please help
Yes, looks like a Conn 22B (or a different bore Conn variant) to me too. This is the 1929 Conn 22B I used to own.
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RE: Goodbye adjustable finger ring
@Richard-III said in Goodbye adjustable finger ring:
So if I buy a horn with a fixed ring and the ring is in the wrong position for my hand, I have to get it moved. Then over time I change my mind and have to get it moved again. And on and on it goes. I vote for adjustable rings. Or even better, give me a trigger. I've never liked rings anyway. Changing from gripping to extending seems wrong. Gripping and gripping a little harder seems more intuitive. I'm going to go play my York Eminence cornet now with a main tuning slide trigger and enjoy the obviously better design.
I see what you’re saying, but the older Bach Mercedes model was built mainly from Stradivarius parts, and I also have a Stradivarius that I’ve played for about 40 years. I had the shop install the fixed ring in exactly the same spot as it is on my Strad, so I think I’ll be happy with it. Here’s the Mercedes…
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RE: Goodbye adjustable finger ring
@ROWUK said in Goodbye adjustable finger ring:
The adjustable ring is yet another reason why student instruments do not respond as well as more "professional" ones. Play a series of octave slurs at medium loudness (especially second line G to top of stave) and you will notice a HUGE difference with and without the adjustable ring.
I have NEVER had a student that needed a ring in a different position. In the beginning the pinky goes in the ring and during puberty (when the third slide becomes more important) the ring finger. If the third slide is well maintained, both fingers work well enough!
While we are at it, we teachers have to insure that the valves are not held with a "grip of death", rather just squeezing enough for stability. This also improves response dramatically!YES! Since the adjustable ring was awkward to use because of its height and slight looseness in the holder, I took it out of the bracket and put it aside (plus, I could use the 1st valve slide saddle for the typical valve combinations that are a bit sharp). I immediately noticed that the old Bach played better, which I wasn’t expecting. That led to the decision to get rid of that entire heavy assembly and have a fixed rind installed.