Carol Brass Sticky Valves
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@Trumpetb said in Carol Brass Sticky Valves:
by ROWUK DR GO flugelgirl and the other knowledgeable members are the best
Good day everyone,
I see this is an older post (2 years ago) but it's "new" to me. I too, am having an issue with a new boutique trumpet that was built with the famous German MAW valves. When I'm playing quickly, there's no problem. It's only when I'm playing ballads/slow passages where the valve (primarily 2nd valve) will stick very close to the top of the upswing if I've had it pressed down for more than 2-3 seconds.
I cleaned the instrument myself with no luck. I sent it back to the dealer who had their repair tech look it over and clean it. Per the dealer, it is attributed to my technique as they said they had no problems with it. I've played professionally 35 years ago in the Marines and decided to pick up the trumpet again as I get closer to retirement. I finally sent it to JLandress to look at. Josh said that he felt that the valves were "not great" and he burnished the inside of the casings and changed out the springs. I noticed the valves became much more reponsive and quick, but the hesitation at the very top of the upswing still occurs rarely. That rarety just destroys your performance and enjoyment.
At this point, I'm breaking it in and "running" the valves to see if they will finally get the right wear to make it operate smooth as silk. As for my technique, I am doubtful of that as I own 2 new Martin Boehme's (tumultous and schnaffhorn) with MAW valves... they are silky smooth just like my new Edwards X-13 from Getzen. No problems with those. I also have a new Schilke HCL2 that is not quite as good as the other 3, but still no sticking. I also have several vintage cornets that work wonderfully.
Cheers!
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@mediocreplayer I had a similar problem with the Stomvi Elite Piccolo... with the first valve sticking during slow play. All kinds of work on the valve did not help even though the instrument was returned for repair several times. Finally, the late Uli Pfreimbtner found that the valve block was ok, I just tended to grip the valve block in slower passages and thus pressed the valve casings too hard...
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Interesting, thank you for that insight. I'll keep an eye on that.
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So since my last post a while ago, my first valve on my Kanstul has gotten a little "wonky" with occasional slowing of response. Immediately after using my standard valve oil (Ultrapure), the wonkyness continues. Robert Love of Brasswind research loaned me a valve lubricant called: Rouge Lube. Worked like a charm, but did need additional application in about a month. Robert said the magic ingredient was transmission fluid (added to a valve oil at a 1:2 ratio) by his analysis.
So again works like a charm, but only rarely does go into reverse unexpectedly.
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@mediocreplayer The analysis of a sticky valve is to first check cleanliness (dirt/damage/distortion - thank you Ivan) and proper lubrication, then comes the interface finger position to valve stroke. Proper lubrication means BONE DRY VALVES AND CASINGS, then oil to create isolation between them. Oil floats on water so drying first is a real part of oiling.
Sometimes we can hone the valves (with a loss of compression) until they work or push the player to change hand position and play with the tips of their fingers.I have only had issues with used instruments broken in by someone else.
