Posts made by grune

@Dr-GO

To quote Kissinger...
The illegal we do immediately. The unconstitutional takes a little longer.

Why would Trump be any different?

I could write a book. Suffice to say what occurs now in the USA is by design. The covid is here to stay.

Einstein said it best: If man is to survive in the long run, he requires a substantially altered way of thinking.

uh, grammatically...

Accordion to who whom ?

@GeorgeB Glad you liked to hear Graves. He may be the last of the kind. Wish I had the means to acquire the master tape/disc and remaster into digital for posterity. Wish I could do for James, too, but I am informed the tapes/dics are too deteriorated. This genre deserves proper archiving/reproduction for posterity. With $trillions printed indiscriminately, one would think a minuscule portion could be applied to preserve history.

Doc had his loyal fans, certainly.
If you have not heard of Joe Graves, he was a member of the James band and an excellent trumpeter. a link to a recording...
Youtube Video – [00:06..]

oh my,,, I expected discussion, not aggression. A pity: a reflection upon our times now?

Some excellent points are made, for which I am thankful. I see I should have self-reflected a moment to specify the thread, as one person notes; true, my focus is upon disinfecting; not general cleaning per se. My apologies.

Disinfection is of high concern to me these days. I reside currently in a tropical environment: which, to use a vernacular, is a 2nd world country, with the reduced affluence and sanitation standards when compared to 1st world. In such environment, organisms are everywhere literally and need only a few hours to propagate. I like to keep my horn exposed to open air: enables evaporation, but opens the possibility of air-borne organisms. A proper cleaning pre and post each practice session is impossible. Thus a quick 'treatment' between cleaning rounds is of great benefit.

I have a compromised immune system, and zero immunity to tropical diseases. Even the 'common cold' gives me near-pneumonia symptoms. I have used ethanol for years, as I was then most concerned about single-cell bacteria. But I see now, thanks to this thread, I should include spores in my deliberations and thus alter my methods. The advice and points noted are very helpful.

To summarise the consensus as I see it: ethanol is effective against single cell, and safe; propanol2 is effective against spores and single cell, thus a better choice with caveat; a general cleaning removes 'gunk' with caveat; disinfecting with propanol2 should follow general cleaning.

with thanks,

@Dr-GO Thanks for advice. I shall be giving my horn a propanol bath/rinse soon!

@Dr-GO
Thanks for clarification and advice. I defer to your expertise and accept spores are resistant to ethanol. Regarding single cell organisms, I am told (by other medical authority) ethanol will kill many, such as:
Pseudomonas aeruginosa
Serratia marcescens
E. coli
Salmonella typhosa
Staphylococcus aureus
Streptococcus pyogenes.
Would you concur?
If true, then I think I shall continue to use ethanol to inter alia avoid contracting the above. I do give my horn a soap bath and rinse regularly, too.

• best regards,

Opinions?

I found a reference to ‘alcohol’ in a thread about covid:
https://trumpetboards.com/topic/617/covid-19-closing-down-music-venues/47

I thought a specific thread might be of interest.

The term ‘alcohol’ is widely confused. In chemistry, alcohol is an organic compound that carries at least one hydroxyl functional group (−OH) bound to a saturated carbon atom. Thus, ‘alcohol’ includes all compounds for which the general formula is CnH2n+1OH. For laymen, ‘alcohol’ is the intoxicant in fermented beverages.

For the discussion, the general public will be presented with two types of ‘alcohol’: Propanol C3H8O, which is the usual base for rubbing alcohol; and Ethanol C2H6O, which is the usual alcohol base in wines and spirits. Both act as solvents and disinfectants, are miscible in water, and are not corrosive to brass. So why the distinction?

Toxicity. Propanol is more toxic than Ethanol. Additionally, rubbing alcohol will have poisonous additives to ‘denature’ the alcohol. Thus, as a disinfectant for instruments, Propanol should be rinsed away with water, preferably distilled and de-mineralised water.

In the USA, the average consumer can avail her/himself to Propanol only, or 40% spirits, due to govt restrictions. Elsewhere, Ethanol is often available. I use 75% Ethanol, as this is proven to be the most effective against germs and spores (higher % evaporates too rapidly, lower % is useless).

I prefer Ethanol, for a few reasons: not toxic; acts instantly against spores; is hygroscopic; very low cost. I pour about 5ml into the mouthpiece and blow it through the horn, daily at the end of each session. I then leave it in the horn to absorb water off the metal and act as a reservoir for disinfectant. Over-night, the alcohol will have evaporated significantly to a low concentration. Commencing each session, I blow the condensed liquid out of the horn via the water keys, then oil the valves. All is very safe to humans.

In 40 years, my horn remains clean, zero odours, internally smooth, and zero rot.

@barliman2001 re distillates. respectively, in a word, incorrect.

@barliman2001
Age would not alter the elements, thus the sulphur would be present in old and new oil. Again, sulphur is highly corrosive to brass and toxic to humans. The presence of sulphur should be noted on the label.

@barliman2001
A very interesting point. If the oil has a shelf life, then why is the expiry date not noted on the label? And, if the oil does have toxic or corrosive compounds, why are these not noted on the label?

You are not the first person I encountered to ask this question. The answer, I believe, is no.

The maths and metallurgy for springs is complicated, and springs for instruments are a very specialised item, so I rather doubt you will find anybody to help you. Thus you will be left to DIY experimentation to try to fabricate a spring for the spring rate/force you desire. I shall be very curious to read your method and results.

@Dr-GO
please allow me...

If you are happy with the comfort and sound attained with a Bach 3C, seemingly you have no reason to change. The 3C is a great all-rounder: which Jens advocates, to which I concur.

Though I advocate the focus should be sound, in practicality, the relationship of m/p size to player reaches a compromise rather quickly. I am fortunate to have the physiognomy for a larger m/p: but not for every larger m/p. I found a '2C' of unknown manufacturer, of high quality, which is larger in all respects to the Bach 1.5C. The 2C gives a HUGE, fantastic sound: it's like a 1.5C on steroids, and makes my horn sound like a completely different horn. The Aida march sounds magnificent with this 2C. But to play on this 2C for more than 30 minutes is simply impossible: it is HUGELY demanding for lung capacity and embouchure strength. So, I have reached my limit, and my compromise is a 1.5C for the sound I wish to attain. I suspect my story is consistent with the norm, for I find many orchestra trumpeters using a 1.5C.

People think Mr Bach invented his numbering as a coherent, graded series. This is not so. imho His numbering reflects his series of experiments. Inter-series, I have never found gradation. Intra-series, yes, I note some gradation. I have read some research indicating Bach intended to match cups B, C, D, E to the key of the horn: thus a B-cup m/p was intended for a Bb horn, a C intended for a C horn, etc. This may indeed be true, as any B cup does sound bigger and better on my Bb horn, than does a C cup. The C cup did sound and perform best with the C horn I had. If this is a valid basis, perhaps you may wish to experiment with 3B as your next step to a bigger sound. Based on my experience, the 3B will reduce range initially, but should not require significantly greater lung and chops strength for endurance, and should give you a bigger sound overall with less edge than a 3C.

Others may have opposing views, and are respected.

CAUTION
update on Tromba T3 oil. photo of product purchased is below, note the amber colour.

After 1 week of using T3, I see turquoise-blue residue in bottom valve caps and on the tissue used to clean the piston casing bore. This can be only one thing: copper sulphate. This means the T3 is reacting to the brass in my horn, causing copper to leach from the brass. This means the T3 must contain sulphur, which accounts for the amber colour; and, it must be active sulphur.

Why sulphur? Sulphur can bond to other metals and provide a very smooth surface to enhance lubrication. 'Active' sulphur will bond under very low temperatures: 'inactive' requires high temperatures. But active sulphur is also corrosive to certain metals, notably brass.

Both sulphur and copper-sulphate are toxic.

NONE OF THIS IS DISCLOSED BY TROMBA IN ITS PRODUCT LITERATURE NOR LABEL. Tromba should be sued in a class action under many counts.

@Newell-Post

You have experienced the effect of increased viscosity. Viscosity is the ratio of the tangential strain to the deformation strain of the liquid at a given temperature. The tangential is caused by the piston travel. The deformation is inherent to the chemistry of the liquid: thus lower means greater viscosity. The dimension is [force x time]/area. The unit is newton-second per square meter.

Effectively, it means your piston is contacting the casing to the point where the friction overcomes the viscosity of the oil. In your case, the heavy oil has sufficient viscosity to overcome the contact friction. Your valves will not gain speed until you lessen the contact.

The problem is solved by process of elimination. 1/ Start with a bore plug of the exact size needed: not a micron more or less. If the plug cannot travel freely in the casing, the casing is bent. 2/ The piston must be perfectly straight: which requires tools and skill to assess. 3/ The valve stem must be lapped/honed properly within the casing, to the point where you are satisfied with piston speed and smoothness for the oil you choose.

If 1 and 2 are perfect, and your valves are monel coated, you are in luck: the pistons can be lapped/honed. Contrary to belief, monel is soft, which enables lapping within the casing. If your pistons are stainless steel, they cannot be lapped within the casing: hard steel will destroy the softer brass or nickel casing.

@Dr-GO On first read, I, too, wondered what the 'sky' meant. A dialect perhaps? But then, being raised with snow, I realised sky meant 'ski'. I forget what term the psych majors use to describe the phenomenon when people see something out of context but place it in proper context, or vice versa.

http://kanstul.com/MPcompare/MouthpieceComparator.html

Would anybody here know if this 'comparator' is accurate?

@BigDub
If this video is 'indicative', then you must be in a very small minority of Americans who may know anything about Canada.