Martin Committee Club

BigDub

@Tobylou8 I can’t read microfilm either.

Zman

Just going to put this out there as it seems an appropriate thread to do so - but if anyone would like any help with Martin horns feel free to drop me a PM or hit me up on the contact page via my website

I've had 3-4 people this week take advantage of this. There is no charge for me taking a look at your horns etc. and telling you what you have. (There have been some real interesting horns turn up already since I launched my Martin Database)

In addition - I've had several people contact me wanting to sell horns, or find buyers. Send me your wish list(s)
(If it's a Large Bore Handcraft Committee you'll need to get in a long line and have minimum 5 digits top drop on one).

To keep things on theme - here's a shot of my personal Deluxe Committee C Trumpet

Zman

I'm just going to leave this little video here as I feel it's right on topic.....

(And no...its not me trying to sell you one)

Zman

Note - I am uploading an update to the video posted yesterday with some more detailed numbers and without the annoying auto-focus from the camera zooming in and out on the Indiana case in the background.

Zman

More in depth, more models covered - and most importantly more in focus (the last video had terrible auto focusing issues)

adc

@Three-Sevens I gave it to her yesterday. She was thrilled. It will not be her main horn as she plays trumpet but it will be a good choice for her solo work/ jazz band. It will have a happy home. Her mom is an accomplished trumpeter. Dad is also a musician. The Bad director said it would be loved.

Zman

I would like to pose a couple of questions to the group in regards to the Committee's if I may:

Which is your favorite Martin Committee (trumpet) and why?
For those that have an original - and say one of the 'clones' (Lawler, Schilke Handcraft, Kanstul 1603, Adams A9 etc) which one is the one you play the most and why? Are there things about the new ones that you wish were a feature on the newer ones?
Are you concerned about the cosmetics as much, or is functionality the king in your decision to purchase? (I realize there are both players and collectors who might have conflicting opinions)

adc

@adc Over and over you will hear that Committees later than serial 200,000 started going downhill. Both trumpets and cornets. Can't say..its true but it is what owners will tell you.

I can not absolutely say the Committee is better than any of my other cornets. But its damn good and It would be one of the last I would keep for its looks and feel alone (quality). The valves have no equal..period. Any serious collector needs a Committee.-IMHO

tjveloce

@Zman

I only have one, and it’s my recently acquired 1956 large bore Deluxe. I did play a couple medium bore horns and they felt a lot like my Olds Recording. My Martin is my favorite trumpet of all time, and I have a small amount of quality horns. It is simply everything that everyone says it is. My favorite quality of it is that the tone is completely without an edge. It’s big and soft and round and I love it.

As for the cosmetics, I don’t need or want it to look like new, and I love the patina that the brass and nickel have on mine. Mine is almost completely dent free, but I don’t mind minor scars that show the horn’s age. That said, the one cosmetic characteristic that does matter to me is the engraving. Mine was almost completely gone thanks to some hamfisted individual with a buffing wheel. Thankfully Sherry Huntley at Artistic Engraving showed my horn some love and when I saw the photo of the horn before she took it to the UPS center, it took my breath away.

-the chief gearhead

tjveloce

This post is deleted!

tjveloce

Somehow I missed this....did You?

https://www.martinbrasswind.com/

-tj

Dr GO

Hmm... read this on their "About Us" link:

After thorough investigation I learned that, like The Martin Band Instrument CO., Kanstul Musical Instruments, in Anaheim, California was found to be one of the most respected and trusted brass instrument manufacturers in the world today! I like the fact that they are family owned, and that every metal part of the horn is made in house and in the USA. Kanstul is also known for their precision and high-quality instruments, and I want nothing less for my customers. Based upon their reputation, I have selected Kanstul Musical Instruments to be the manufacturer for the Martin Brasswind Co. Though it takes approximately 6 to 8 weeks to build, it is WELL WORTH THE WAIT.

With Kanstul no longer producing horns, is this Committee also doomed to extinction?

Zman

@tjveloce thanks for your insights.

I should feel that I should explain myself a little more when I refer to 'cosmetics' as I have something in mind. If the valves were Martin, but the valve casing looked slightly different - would that sway your decision to purchase an instrument based on this?
In case anyone is wondering - I am working on a couple of things as part of my Heritage line which will be pretty close to the original. I already made one that used a Committee block with an engraved Lawler C7 deluxe bell that turned out fantastic. Now I am looking at BC 9 & 10 and have the parts to make other versions using original bells.

Dr GO

@Zman said in Martin Committee Club:

@tjveloce thanks for your insights.

I should feel that I should explain myself a little more when I refer to 'cosmetics' as I have something in mind. If the valves were Martin, but the valve casing looked slightly different - would that sway your decision to purchase an instrument based on this?

The valves MUST be original Martin. There is no substitute. This "pistons" (Martin's designation) are unique and are primed by water. They work amazingly well with this design. This is one of the virtues I adore about the original. In addition, the wear better then ANY trumpet I own. My horn is a 1946, 73 years old, and looks BEST of all my horns. Pristine. Don;t change the original. It is perfect.

To answer you basic question: The valve casings would not be an issue.

Dr GO

@Zman said in Martin Committee Club:

@tjveloce thanks for your insights.

...I already made one that used a Committee block with an engraved Lawler C7 deluxe bell that turned out fantastic. Now I am looking at BC 9 & 10 and have the parts to make other versions using original bells.

I played the Lawler C7. It does not sound as my Committee, it is only a copy, and not one of the better ones. The bell is as important a key feature as the original bell. It must have the exact taper and dimensions of the original or it will not sound as a vintage Committee.

Dr GO

ALSO: How are people going to reproduce the original metal alloy. It contained lead. In the mid-50's our government highly regulated leads use in producing brass alloy. That will take away from timbre. How do you adjust for this?

Zman

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Zman

This post is deleted!

Zman

@Dr-GO said in Martin Committee Club:

@Zman said in Martin Committee Club:

@tjveloce thanks for your insights.

I should feel that I should explain myself a little more when I refer to 'cosmetics' as I have something in mind. If the valves were Martin, but the valve casing looked slightly different - would that sway your decision to purchase an instrument based on this?

The valves MUST be original Martin. There is no substitute. This "pistons" (Martin's designation) are unique and are primed by water. They work amazingly well with this design. This is one of the virtues I adore about the original. In addition, the wear better then ANY trumpet I own. My horn is a 1946, 73 years old, and looks BEST of all my horns. Pristine. Don;t change the original. It is perfect.

To answer you basic question: The valve casings would not be an issue.

Thanks, I would be using the same pistons that are in the Committee and a valve casing from another horn - all with original Martin parts. I have been stashing parts for many years now to do such projects.

Zman

@Dr-GO said in Martin Committee Club:

ALSO: How are people going to reproduce the original metal alloy. It contained lead. In the mid-50's our government highly regulated leads use in producing brass alloy. That will take away from timbre. How do you adjust for this?

I have access to original parts - bells and valve blocks, no reproductions. (maybe the odd brace - i.e. waterkey brace or finger ring where these are not available). I'm not planning mass production here - just a small number.