@jolter I did end up going for nickel plating over the bronze valves.
The casings also turned out to be nickel (German silver) and could possibly have slightly different alloy composition than the valve replate, but I can't be shure.
So far, I have not experienced any problems with valve action or unusual wear on the valves.
I don't play it all the time, only in rotation with other vintage horns.
G.
Remember this stuff? more sore eyes than eye candy, but...it's Conn!
https://imgur.com/DhVyXM7
So, it should be considered top of the line(Besson/B&H) pro level of that era?
I Have a Strad. *37 from the same time and would love to compare side to side, IF I decide to get the International done...
Thank you for the great info.
G.
@barliman2001 sorry failed tu mention this ie a early 70's trumpet according to the serial number 527...
I actually got it to fix someone's attempt at making a C trumpet out of a same model a few years older. I had read somewhere they where large bore, and i liked the thinn lightwieght bell reminiscent of the Sovereign Studio
Wondering if anyone has info on these models?..Besson International England made, dual triggers like the 10-10 may be larger bore (.468?) Could this be a pro level model
https://imgur.com/sSxUcM1
https://imgur.com/77A0U2B
Worth fixing tired valves, rest looks pretty good. Short stroke, smooth slides, all parts there and good finish
G.
Have any of this left? Liberty pipe maybe?
Looking for mid. 30's ( I think '34-'36..170xxx range) King Liberty Bb trumpet parts horn...at deco type, bottom sprung.
PM me with have's
Thank you for looking!!
G.
Have you considered recuperating/ cleaning and reusing them?(after running them through).
I wash and dry them, then I keep them in a jar of my favorite valve oil. I have been on the same jar since a few years now....
G.
@tptguy said in Bach Shop Cards:
This is great news. I have been trying for 5-6 yrs to get a scan of the shop card for my old 1930 NY Strad...although I already know what it says(Thank you Roy!!) without much results. Just sent in the serial the photo as per instructions from the TM site..hope this works.
G.
Update..
Took only a few days for Andrew Lott to send the card for my 1930 Strad. verrry happy with all
G.
This is great news. I have been trying for 5-6 yrs to get a scan of the shop card for my old 1930 NY Strad...although I already know what it says(Thank you Roy!!) without much results. Just sent in the serial the photo as per instructions from the TM site..hope this works.
G.
Ewan did a set in Tiger's eye for my Recording a few years back. Great look with the Rey-O-Loy bell...and they turned out fantastic. Don't know if he still does them.
G.
Thank you Dale...of all the strange things about this trumpet( I had never seen a model 182) the serial number starting with 3 zeros was(is) the most concerning to me. But I value your knowledge.
Tk's again
G.
We used my '74 model 37 light weight body and bell to compare. If it wasn't for the 3rd slide stop, serial number and strange bell script, you would swear it's the real thing, sitting in a section and you couldn't tell if the guy next to you had it in his hands. It also plays/sounds the same(to my ears) and it could weigh a few oz. more also.
Has the Monel pistons, finger ring and thumb saddle mounts are identical, pinky hook similar but different.
G.
I would like comments regarding this trumpet bought as a Bach Strad. by a buddy of mine.
Although, slides caps, pistons interchange and work as they should with a "real" *37 lightweight.. Some aspects are disturbing
-Bell script says had crafted in the USA
-Script is rather shalow
-Serial number starts with 3 zeros ( 000..
-3rd. slide stop is Bach Commercial Bb style(like Yamaha)
-Water key and screw corners feel rounder, not as sharp
-Pull knobs are rounder
-Detail on slide tubes is different(grooved end)
Thank you to all
G.
I have been using 5min. 2 part epoxy and automotive grade cork rubber for the past 4-5 years and have not re-corked any I have done yet so can't say how this would affect a next re-re-cork job . I leave them over night before filing to fit, none have fallen apart yet.
G.
Total parts cost is aprox. $7 cad, most expensive is the heavy duty clamp (about $3) out of all the ones I gave away, only 1 clamp broke. Working on a new design, but this sets up with one hand in 2 seconds. One even gets a rubber sleeve to protect the cup mute rim.
G.
Here is my take on holders, folds up small. I ended up finding strong clamps and made a few dozens for all my trumpet playing band mates, even adapting for the small wire type music stands. This one was my last of 5 versions, and is about 3 years old
https://imgur.com/pCDygW0
https://imgur.com/ElQCtjw
https://imgur.com/BHsY7Gm
O ye of little faith.
Here is a shot of the 3rd valve casing on a similar horn, a few months older, same model though, unless it's carbon steel or stainless, that would be nickel there
Thinking of staying with copper, but re fit many months away so time to re think that
I have posted this on the "other" site, but to reach more inputs...
Wondering about best choice for piston re-plate original copper or nickel?
Trumpet is a recent acquisition, mid 20's Holton with nickel casings.
G.
